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Book »C^ "5^ 

10 



COPYRIGHT DEPOSIT. 





THE PLAN BOOK SERIES. 



A LITTLE JOURNEY 



TO 



IRELAND 



FOR INTERMEDIATE AND UPPER 
GRADES 



BY 

MARIAN M. GEORGE 



CHICAGO 
A. FLANAGAN COMPANY 



c. 



Copyright, 1901, 
By A. FLANAGAN COMPANY. 



A Little Journey to 
Ireland. 



Let us now turn our steps towards that part of 
Europe that lies nearest to our home, beautiful, but 
unfortunate and neglected Ireland. It is west of the 
island of Great Britain. 

Ireland is often called the Emerald Isle, because it 
is green, winter and summer. If you will look at the 
map you will see that Ireland is as far to the north as 
Labrador. You remember too, that this region is cold 
and desolate. 

It would seem then that we would need to take 
with us our heavy wraps and furs, but this is not the 
case. Ireland catches the warm winds from the At- 
lantic, which keeps it from being cold. 

But we must take our raincoats and umbrellas, for 
.\tlantic winds are always laden with moisture and 
bring rains very, very often. So often do these rains 
occur that tourists are apt to be disgusted tho the 
weather is never too hot, nor very cold. 

An English poet who visited Ireland once expressed 
his opinion of the weather in these words: 

"The weather depends upon the moon, as a rule. 

And in Kerry the rule is true, 
For it rains when the moon is at its full, 

And it rains when the moon is new, 
When the moon is at the quarter then down comes the rain 

At the half 'tis no better I ween, 
When the moon is at three-quarters it's at it again, 

And it rains, besides, mostly between." 



4 A LITTLE JOURNEY TO IRELAND. 

It is because of this moist climate that the island is 
so beautifully green. The coldest weather does not 
frost the grass nor the hottest weather scorch it. 

BIRD'S EYE VIEW OF IRELAND. 

If we could take a bird's eye view of Ireland we 
would see that it consists of a great central plain bor- 
dered with low mountains. Down the mountain sides 
rush torrents that lose themselves in the tangled 
growth of the broken valleys. There are but few 
navigable rivers. The largest is the Shannon. But 
we would find many, many beautiful lakes, chief of 
which are the Lakes of Killarney. 

Along the coast the shore is very deep, cliffs being 
hundreds of feet in places, but there are man}^ fine har- 
bors. 

■ Across the island from east to west is a great belt 
of wet swampy earth, called bogland. It is said that 
there are more than a million and a half acres of this 
in the central plain of Ireland. What a waste of land, 
you think. Not at all. It gives to the people their 
fuel. 

This^soil contains a great deal of vegetable matter. 
Indeed it is one mass of roots of dead and decaying 
plants. These lands were once covered with forests. 
These have decayed and been followed by other for- 
ests which have also decayed until the earth for many 
feet deep is composed of this decayed wood, roots and 
moss. 

The turf that forms these bogs is known as peat. 
When dried, this peat burns readily, and as wood and 







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A LITTLE JOURNEY TO IRELAND. 7 

coal are scarce in Ireland the peat is used almost en- 
tirely for fuel. 

It is cut up into squares in the summer, dried in the 
sunshine and stored in or near the cottages for winter 
use. If the season is wet the peat can not be dried and 
the people are obliged to go without fire. 

NORTHERN IRELAND. 

We shall first visit the northern part of Ireland, and 
so our ship lands us at Belfast, the chief city of north- 
ern Ireland. It is situated at the head of a fine bay, 
and has one of the best harbors in the kingdom. 

Belfast we find to be a lively growing city of over 
260,000 people.' Although second in population, it is 
first in trade and manufactures in Ireland. Indeed it 
is the greatest linen city in the world. 

Belfast is also a center tor the building of iron 
steamships. One of our largest steamship lines has 
its steamers made here. 

Belfast has wide, straight streets and many fine 
buildings. The linen factories, warehouses and flax 
mills are among the chief objects of interest in the 
city; these are to be found scattered all over the place. 
Some of these buildings are so fine that we mistake 
them for palaces and government buildings. 

It is more than likely that the table linen used in 
• your home came fi'om some of these factories. What 
a fine opportunity to supply ourselves with dainty 
handkerchiefs. Then, too, we must buy some of the 
beautiful table cloths, lunch cloths, napkins, doilies 
and towels to take home as presents for friends. 



8 



A LITTLE JOURNEY TO IRELAND. 




BELFAST, IHKLANU, AND ALBERT MEMORIAL. 

Belfast has the finest schools of all the cities of Ire- 
land. Everybody is busy, and so there is little crime. 

Many of the people here are Scotch, and indeed 
there are more of the Scotch people in the north of Ire- 
land than Irish. They have fair complexions, blue 
eyes, yellow or auburn hair, broad faces and powerful 
frames. 

These people are many of them the descendants of 
Scottish invaders, who came from the opposite coast of 
Scotland long ago, and drove the Irish people living 



A LITTLE JOURNEY TO IRET^AND. 9 

north of Tame away. They settled there themselves, 
and that is why we see so many Scotch faces on the 
northern seaboard today. 

These Scotch-Irish are thrifty, industrious folk. 
Many of the people of Belfast have made great for- 
tunes, and these live in beautiful country places just 
outside of the city. The farmers of the northeastern 
part of Ireland are many of them well-to-do. Their 
lands are well cultivated, and their homes neat and 
attractive. 

Not a bit of land is allowed to go to waste; the 
patches of fertile land between the cliffs, i-ocks and on 
the hill and mountain sides are planted with potatoes. 
On the level land flax and oats are cultivated. If 
there is land good for nothing else, the cow and goat 
are allowed to hunt for food there. 

We shall next take some excursions into the country 
near Belfast. We wish to see th^ Giant's Causeway 
for one thing, for it is one of the greatest curiosities 
of Ireland or of the world. We can go either by land 
or water, but prefer to go by land, as we wish to see 
w^hat the Irish railways are like. 

TRAVEL IN IRELAND. 

The Irish railways are not as good as those in the 
States. The cars are rather shabby looking and not 
always clean. They are divided into compartments 
containing six or eight seats, arranged so that half the 
passengers ride backwards. 

These compartments are not connected. The guards 
pass, not through the cars but along the outside , to 
examine tickets. The cars are not warmed as ours 



10 A LITTLE J-OURNEY TO IRELAND. 

are. In winter they are heated with hot water foot 
warmers. It seems ver}^ odd to us. 

There are no dining cars, no ice water to drink, no 
newsboy. If we want food and drink we must take 
them in baskets. But then the distances are not 
great and the journeys not at all tiresome. 

The first thing we notice is the rich green of the 
land. In the valleys the streams are bordered by 
plants, trees and vines so luxuriant as to make it seem 
as if we were in the tropics. But there are also bleak 
looking mountains, and wild moors covered with 
heather, and desolate stretches of bog lands. 

THE GIANT'S CAUSEWAY. 

As we approach the northeastern coast we observe 
the basaltic nature of the stone. It is a lava poured out 
from a great volcano ages ago. On this part of the 
coast it is hundreds of feet in thickness. 

Causeway means a paved street. This Causeway 
looks to us like a large unfinished pier. It is made up 
of many, many rock pillars, rising out of the water. 
These are so close together as to form a paved path- 
way, which leads downward into the sea. 

When we walk out to the center of the great 
slope we find that the columns are of different shapes. 
Some are three-sided, some five-sided, and so on up to 
colunms having nine sides. The columns are formed 
of many pieces from one to two feet high, wedged 
closely together. 

It is said that the Causeway does not stop where it 
appears to, but that it continues under the water to 
the opposite coast of Scotland. This may be true, for 



A LITTLE JOURNEY TO IRELAND, 



11 



the same columns appear on an island just off Scot- 
land's coast. 

There is an old Irish legend that accounts for this 
Causeway. This tells us that it was built by an Irish 
giant, out of politeness to a Scottish giant. He invited 




GIANT'S CAUSEWAY. 



his rival over for a fight, but the Scottish giant was 
not able to swim. This roadway was then built in 
order that he might walk across. It was broken by 
the sea but the two ends have remained standing as 
we see them to-day. 



12 A LITTLE JOURNEY TO IRELAND. 

ALONG THE COAST. 

A ride along the coast shows us other rocks, some 
black, some white, which take on various forms. There 
are many caves and arches along this coast, and near 
it Sea Gull Island, a broad, flat rock, which takes its 
name from the sea gulls that come there. Thousands 
and thousands of these birds are on and about this 
island, and one can hear their wild cries a long dis- 
tance. 

Not far from the island is the highest promontoiy 
on the coast. It is formed of columnar greenstone, 
and some of its pillars are more than two hundred 
feet in height. Its rocks and its cliffs make it look 
like a ruined castle. Near this spot, perched on deso- 
late crags are the ruins of two old castles, once inhalv 
ited by powerful and war-like families. 

Then there is a chasm sixty or seventy feet wide 
which separates the little island of Carrick-a-Rede, a 
salmon fishing station, from the mainland. Over this 
cavern, more than a hundred feet above the sea, is 
a swinging bridge, but we have no desire to cross it. 

Another excursion from Belfast takes us to Antrim, 
a quiet little village where we have an opportunity to 
see one of the round towers of Ireland, of which we 
have heard. This tower is almost a hundred feet high 
with a place in the top for a bell. 

We are told that we will see a number of these dur- 
ing our journey, as they are to be found in many 
places. Some towers are in perfect condition, and 
others in ruins, ^ome of them are smaller than this 
and others larger. 



A LITTLE JOURXKY TO IHELAND. 



13 



They vary in diameter from eight to fifteen feet, 
are perfectly round and their doors are several feet 
from the ground. Each floor has several windows to 
light it, except the upper floor, which has four windows 
facing the points of the compass. 

No one knows what these towers are for, but it is 
supposed that they were watch towers used by the 
ancient Irish. 




ROPE BRIDGE, CARRlCK-xi-REDE. 



14 



A LITTLE JOURNEY TO IRELAND. 



DUBLIN. 

Dublin, Ireland's largest city and former capital, is 
also situated on the eastern coast. It has a very beau- 
tiful bay, which reminds us of the song we have heard 
sung by Irish friends in America: 

Oh! Bay of Dublin! My heart you'se troublin'; 
Your beauty haunts me like a fever dream. 

Du]:>lin is the oldest, the finest and perhaps the most 
interesting city we shall visit. It is built on both 




SA(MvVILLE STREET, DUHLIX. 



sides of the Liffey River, a muddy and not over fra- 
grant stream.- Its great thoroughfare, Sackville Street, 
is broad, but not a beautiful avenue. Its buildings 
have a dingy look. Many people call this O'Connell 
Street, because at the head of the bridge named aftei 



A LITTLE JOURNEY TO IRELAND. 15 

this famous Irish patriot, stands a monument support- 
ing his statue in bronze. 

We are told that the most important pubhc build- 
ings to see are the University, the Bank of Ireland, 
The Four Courts, the Castle, the National Gallery, 
St. Patrick's Cathedral, Christ Church, and the Custom 
House. 

The Bank of Ireland occupies the building once used 
by the Irish Parliament. The custom house on the 
river banks is an imposing structure. Nearly opposite 
the bank is the Dublin University or Trinity College, 
which is perhaps the most interesting of all these 
places. It is a very famous old building, modeled 
after the great English universities. It is surrounded 
by beautiful trees and lawns, and at the gate are stat- 
ues of three of Ireland's famous men — Oliver Gold- 
smith, the writer, Edmund Burke, the orator, and 
Henry Grattan. Not far away is a statue of Thomas 
Moore, the poet. 

Dublin is sometimes called the '' city of statues," 
because there are so many in the parks, public sc^uares 
and avenues. A memorial of the Irish patriot, Daniel 
O'Connell, stands in the cemetery. It is built like the 
round tower that we saw near Belfast, but is much 
larger. There is also an obelisk erected to the mem- 
ory of the Duke of Wellington, who was born in Dub- 
lin. The people point to this with pride, and remind 
us that their great duke conquered Napoleon. 

No nation in the world so honors its great men as 
does Ireland. And it has produced many of them. 
Among its famous writers are Dean Swift, Moore and 



16 



A LITTLE JOURNEY TO IRELAND. 



Goldsmith. We have all read of these men, for their 
names are known wherever stories are read and songs 
sung. 

So much beautiful poetry has been written about 
Ireland that it is sometimes called the " Isle of Song." 




THOMAS MOOKK. 



Goldsmith's poems appeal particularly to those far 
away from home in strange lands, as are so many of 
his countrymen now. But Moore is the favorite, and 
is called Ireland's greatest poet. 

Both Goldsmith and Moore were educated in Dub- 
lin, and though some claim that Moore's birthplace 



A LITTLE JOURNEY TO IRELAND. 17 

was in London, the Irish people tell us that it was in 
this city. The building that is shown -us as his first 
home is a plain,- tall house, the lower part being used 
as a grocery. It is said that Moore's father was a 
grocer, too. 

In the window of the upper story is a niche in which 
stands a bust of the poet. We buy little pictures of 
Moore at a shop near by, to carry home with us as 
souvenirs, and further celebrate the occasion by sing- 
ing some of his poems that have been set to music. 

''The Last Rose of Summer" and "Those Evening 
Bells," we know, but some of us cannot remember the 
words of " The Harp That Once Thro' Tara's Halls." 
Perhaps it is because we do not understand exactly 
what they mean. 

■ About thirty miles from Dublin is a famous hill 
called Tara. It was here that the palace of the old 
Irish kings stood. In its banquet halls the music- 
loving chiefs and the minstrels with their harps, pro- 
vided amusement for their kings. 

The castles, and kings, the musicians and their 
harps, the noble lords and ladies that once thronged 
the banquet halls are gone, and nothing is left but a 
collection of mounds. But as long as this song lives 
the place will not be forgotten. 

Phoenix Park we find to be one of the finest parks 
we have ever seen. It is said to be one of the largest 
in the world, as it contains over 1,700 acres. Grand 
old trees are scattered over it, gardens carefully tend- 
ed, meadows on which cows, sheep and deer feed, and 
lovely little lakes. 



18 



A LITTLE JOURNEY TO IRELAND. 



The zoological gardens within it contain many rare 
birds and animals. The sick soldiers from the royal 
infirmary near may often be seen walking about in its 
shady avenues. The reviews and sham fights are also 
held here, and at these times all Dublin turns out to 
see the show in the park. 




ST. PATRICKS CATIIKDRAL, DUBLIN. 



The most famous cathedral is Christ's Church, and 
next in importance is St. Patrick's Cathedral. It is 
famed because it is said to occupy the site of the first 
church in Ireland, built by St. Patrick, the patron 
saint of Ireland. Jonathan Swift was once dean of 



A LITTLE JOURNEY TO IRELAND. 19 

this cathedral, and his monument is in the church. 
Do you know what a dean is? You perhaps remember 
him as the man who wrote '^ Gulliver's Travels." 

Dublin is not a manufacturing city, and has not the 
air of enterprise and prosperity that is so noticeable 
in Belfast. The manufacture of poplin is almost the 
only important one the city has left, though consider- 
able liquor is made here, as in all the large cities in 
Ireland. The Irishman is as fond of whisky as the 
Englishman is of his ale and beer, and so, much of this 
whisky is used in this country, but much of it is also 
sent to other countries. 

Dublin is a wealthy cit}" , but there is much more \ 
poverty here than in any other city in the United 
Kingdom. One-eighth of its inhabitants are said to 
be paupers, and one-quarter miserably poor. 

These poor people are crowded together like sheep, 
in the wretched sections of the city. The houses are 
tumble-down tenements or dirty hovels. There 
are many grog shops and pawn shops everywhere. 
Ragged , barefooted women and children with pale, 
pinched, hungry faces walk about the streets selling 
papers, or a few vegetables. 

Some of this poverty we are told is due to lack of 
thrift and diligence. The people are too generous and 
light-hearted to provide for the future. But there is 
no employment for large numbers of them, and they 
are too much attached to their beloved city to leave. 

The fertile slopes along the river outside the city 
are devoted to the cultivation of strawberries. Dur- 
ing the season everyone takes a jaunting car after 



20 



A LITTLE JOURNEY TO IRELAND. 



sundown and drives out along the river road to the 
strawberry beds. Here are strawberry stalls and mar- 
kets where tea, hot cake and strawberries are served. 
The wealthy people of Dublin live in the suburbs, 
and most of the beautiful homes are to be found there. 



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BRAY, THE SEASIDE RESORT NEAR DUBLIN. 



Dublin is not a pleasant city during the summer 
months and so those who can afford it, go then for 
pure air and sea bathing to a pretty httle seaside re- 
sort called Bray. 



A. LITTLE JOURNEY TO IRELAND. 21 

The streets of this place are filled with fashionably 
dressed, fine looking men and women who appear to 
have a very gay time. They seem to have nothing to 
do but enjoy themselves, and it is a relief to get away 
from the dirt, distress and beggars of Dublin and see 
only happy, smiling faces, and contented prosperous 
people. 

When the weather is cooler these people will return 
to their pretty country places and homes in the sub- 
urbs of Dublin. Suppose we take a ride out into the 
suburbs and the country beyond, and visit some of 
these homes. 

THE JAUNTINQ CAR, 

Now for a ride in a jaunting car, the national 
vehicle of Ireland. It is a four wheeled open carriage 
with the seats placed back to back. The driver's seat 
faces the horses. This car holds from six to eight 
people, but there are smaller ones. These have but 
one pair of wheels and carry only four persons. 

We give the driver directions as to where we wish 
to go, and the next instant we are tearing down the 
street at break-neck speed. Directly in front of us 
is another jaunting car and in it a party of Irish 
people. 

The car rattles and bounces up and down, shaking 
right well its passengers, who are having the j oiliest 
kind of a time. 

Tho the car seems at first awkward and uncomfort- 
able to us, we soon get accustomed to it and enjoy it. 
There is one inconvenient thing about it, though, it 
gives us a view of but one side of the road. 



22 



A T.TTTLE JOURNEY TO IRELAND. 



It is much better than walking, however, and I will 
tell you why. If we were to walk out into the sub- 
urbs expecting to see some of the fine homes there, 
we would be sadly disappointed. We should see noth- 




AX IRISH JAUNTING CAR. 



ing or very little but miles and miles of high stone 
walls. These people shut themselves in from the pub- 
lic by building walls eight or ten feet high around 
their parks, lawns or gardens. 

SUBURBAN AND COUNTRY HOMES. 

A good friend who knows of our wish to visit one of 
these country homes, has given us a letter of intro- 
duction and so we are sure of a pleasant reception, for 



A LITTLE JOURNEY TO IRELAND. 23 

these suburban Dublin people and country squires are 
the most hospitable people in the world. 

We drive up long shaded avenues to reach these 
homes, which are large and comfortable, but usually 
plain. The people seem to pride themselves more on 
their beautiful grounds than on fine houses. The 
houses are surrounded by well kept lawns, shaded by 
grand old trees, and often there are large parks where 
game is kept. They have fine gardens, hot houses and 
stables full of high bred horses, for the Irish people 
are fond of out door life and open air sports. 

Inside these great houses one sees fine books and 
pictures, rare china, and all kinds of luxuries. 

Nothing could be more pleasant than life in one of 
these country homes. The people entertain a great 
deal and are delightful talkers. 

The squire spends his time in looking after his estate 
and the welfare of his tenants. He sees that the poor 
do not suffer, looks after the sick, and settles the dif- 
ferences of his tenants. For amusement he hunts, 
fishes, rides and drives, for the air is mild and the 
weather never too hot. 

The large farms are divided into small tracts of 
land, tiny houses built on them and rented. Some of 
these land owners have as many as eight thousand 
tenants on their farms. In this way the whole coun- 
try is covered with scattered houses, near enough to 
each other to allow the people to visit back and forth 
daily. 

Let us now visit some of the more humble country 
homes. Those by the roadside are built of stone, with 



24 , A LITTLE JOURNEY TO IRELAND. 

whitewashed walls and thatched roofs. The yards 
are littered with rubbish and the surroundings of the 
buildings not at all attractive. 

The guide points out one poor home which he 
wishes us to visit. From it we can get an idea of the 
way some of the poorest peasants live. One can 
usually buy a glass of milk or buttermilk, or a pair of 
yarn stockings at these cottage homes. Buttermilk is 
the favorite drink of the people. Where the family is 
too poor to own a cow, a goat is often kept. 

We have had a long ride and are glad of the oppor- 
tunity to stop for refreshments. So we follow our 
guide to this little home. 

The cabin stands just a few feet from the public 
road. The ground about it is a large mud puddle. 
There is no yard fenced in, and no ground near by for 
cultivation. Not a tree, nor plant, nor vine, nor gar- 
den to brighten the surroundings. 

The house is a very poor home, indeed, just a low 
hut. The walls are of hardened mud, mixed with 
straw. It has been a wet season, and they are cov- 
ered with a green mold. The floor is also of mud, as 
hard as cement. The roof is thatched with straw, 
and when it rains very hard the water oozes through 
the rotten thatch. 

There is but one room in this house, and here the 
father, mother and children all live, eat and sleep. 
And not only the family, but the chickens, and some- 
times the pig and goat. Nests are hung on the walls 
that the hens may lay their eggs. 

There is almost no furniture, just a couple of stools, 



A LITTLE JOURNEY TO IRELAND. 



25 



a bench, a table and a spinning-wheel. When the 
mother wishes to spin she takes her wheel out doors 
or places it by the low, narrow open door, for the 
cabin has no window. The cabin door is in two 
halves, the upper half being open and the lower half 




INTKRIOR OK PEASANTS HOME 



shut. The family use this in place of the window, and 
the chickens find it convenient also, in mounting to 
their roosts inside. If it is very cold or stormy, the 
cow, pig, goat and donkey have a corner in the hut; 
that is, if the people are lucky enough to own these 
animals. 

What about the stove? There is none. There is a 



26 A LITTLE JOURNEY TO IRELAND. 

narrow chimney and an open hearth. This is of earth, 
and the fire of peat is laid on it. Everything in 

the cottage is black and dirty from the peat smoke. 
The peat makes a brisk, hot fire, and gives out an 
odor which is pleasant to those who are used to it. 

When we enter, the mistress of the house dusts the 
stools, and asks us to sit down and warm ourselves. 
Then she turns out the burning surface of the turf 
which is on the hearth. She shakes her head very 
sadly, and tells us that she fears it will go hard with 
them this year. It has been a wet season, and im- 
possible to dry peat for their winter supply of fuel. 
They cannot afford to biiy wood or coal from their 
landlord, and so, much of the time they must be with- 
out fire. The potato crop, too, is not so good as usual. 
Rainy weather rots the potatoes. 

The bread, when there is any, is baked in a flat-bot- 
tomed kettle on the hearth. Oatmeal and potatoes are 
almost the only articles of food in many of these 
homes. Meat and tea are luxuries to be used only on 
holidays, Sundays or in sickness. The eggs, poultry 
and pigs are all taken to market and sold. 

But milk they have, yes, and right willing is she to 
sell us some. Delighted with the coins w^e give her, 
she accompanies us to the door with a beaming face 
and blessings without number. 

A little farther on we visit another home, a better 
one. This is built of stone and contains two or more 
rooms. It also has windows, and is lighter and cleaner. 
The house has a wide hearth, with seats of clay built 
on either side of the chimney. 



A LITTLE JOURNEY TO IRELAND. 



27 



Strings of onions, and flitches of bacon hang in the 
chimney. The furnitiu-e is very simple; there is a 
dresser with some crockery, a bed in the corner, and 




IRISH PEASANT WOMAN AND SPINNING WHEEL. 

a bright colored picture of St. Patrick on the wall. 
The bed is a settle which is used as a seat by day and 



28 A LITTLE JOURNEY TO IRELAND. 

a bed at night. Whether the fanner is poor or well-to- 
do, the kitchen is used as the sitting room. There may 
be a parlor with papered walls and good furniture, but 
it is used only on extra occasions. 

Many of the homes in Ireland are like the peas- 
ants' homes we have just visited. The people are 
poor. They support themselves by growing a few 
vegetables upon a small patch of land, and by keep- 
ing a pig or two, a.little poultry, and if very fortunate, 
a cow. 

Why are these people so poor, we ask, and the peas- 
ants tell us that their bad fortune is due to England. 
Their beloved Dubhn was once the capital of Ireland, 
but their Parliament has been taken away, and the 
country has suffered much under English rule. Per- 
haps we will understand better when w^e know some- 
thing about the government of Ireland. 

THE GOVERNMENT. 

Ireland was at one time an independent kingdom 
but is now an English possession. The union of Great 
Britain took place one hundred years ago, and a sorry 
time of it poor Ireland has had since then. 

When the English took possession of the land, they 
took it away from the people and gave it to the chiefs 
or lords. These lords then rented the land to the 
people and compelled them also to fight for them in 
time of war. This made them little better than 
slaves. 

The chiefs in their turn were obliged to pay taxes 
to the English king, and to support the English gov- 
ernment. After a time they rebelled against this plan 



A LITTLE JOURNEY TO IRELAND. 29 

and then the Enghsh rulers took away much of their 
land and gave it to the English people. 

Much of the land today is owned by English land- 
lords who live in England or some other part of Eur- 
ope. They draw their rents from their farms but are 
not interested in Ireland, and spend this money else- 
where. 

The great farms or estates of these absent landlords 
are in charge of overseers, who are not often interest- 
ed in their tenants or their welfare. They are there 
to get as much rent for the land as possible, and if 
the crops fail, or from sickness or other causes the ten- 
ants can not pay their rent the overseer sometimes 
turns them out. 

There is noplace then for them to go, and nothing 
to do but beg. Sometimes the miserable little homes 
are torn down or ]:)urned to keep tenants from return- 
ing to them. Do you see now wh}^ the people are so 
poor? This, they say, is the reason why so many of 
them must emigrate to other lands to find homes. 

But there are some who have lived in these homes 
all their lives. Their fathers and grand-fathers lived 
there before them and the}^ love their poor little cab- 
ins so much that they would rather remain there with- 
out enough to eat than to leave their friends and 
relatives and seek a strange land. • 

Many of them feel that the land is theirs by right, 
and that a great injustice has been done them by Eng- 
land. Sometimes when the landlords turn them out 
they revolt, and in their fury they kill the overseer or 
landlord and burn or destroy his property, just as the 
strikers do in this country in their riots. 



30 A LITTLE JOURNEY TO IRELAND. 

To guard against these troubles a ver}' large police 
force is kept in Ireland to keep the peace and prevent 
outbreaks. We have wondered many a time why 
there were so man}^ Irish policemen in the United 
States, and some of our party now^ say that it must be 
because this is what most of the young Irishmen have 
been trained for before coming to our country. Others 
say that they are selected to fill these positions be- 
cause they are such fine big men and such good fight- 
ers. Do you think either of these opinions correct? 

Ireland's laws are made in England. Representa- 
tives are sent from Ireland to the English parliament 
to assist in making the laws, but the Irish people 
are not satisfied. They want to make their own 
law^s. 

The Irish people have had one good friend among 
the English statesmen, Gladstone, at one time the 
Prime Minister of England. He tried to have the 
land system changed so that the people would have a 
chance to earn their own homes. 

He did not succeed, but the people still hope that 
the day will come w^hen their land will be their own 
again. Many brave and patriotic Irishmen have spent 
their lives or given them in trying to free their coun- 
try from English rule. 

THE VALE OF AVOCA. 

'•There's not in this wide world a valley so sweet 

As that vale on whose bosom the bright waters meet." 

Someone out on the street is singing this song and 
it reminds us that the Vale of Thomas Moore's song is 
near Dublin, in the Wicklow mountain region. Many 



A LITTLE JOURNEY TO IRELAND. 



31 




32v A LITTLE JOURNEY TO IRELAND. 

Irish and English people have spoken to us of -this 
place, which is considered one of the most beautiful in 
the Emerald Isle. 'The Meeting of the Waters," one 
of Moore's famous verses,was written at a point where 
the two rivers A vonbeg and Avonmore meet and form 
the river Avoca. It is in a pleasant valley surrounded 
by hills, but we have seen many valleys more lovely. 
One can see here the slab which marks the place where 
Moore wrote his poem. 

In tlie Wicklow region is Glenmalure, a wild, soli- 
tary pass which is often visited by travellers. There 
are several cascades near this spot, but the one which 
we most admire is the Fall of Poulapanca, formed by 
the Liffey river passing thro the Glen of Kippure. 
This is probably the most famous cascade in Ireland. 

But we must hasten on to Galway. We pass thro 
a beautiful region, but have only time for glimpses of 
cascades,waterfalls, ruined castles and historical spots. 
One place on oiu- route, called Ballinasloe i 3 remark- 
able for its great cattle fairs, which are attended by 
people from all parts of Europe. The mountains of 
Connemara can be seen from our car windows, and in 
the valley the tiny houses and farms of the peasants. 

In Galway county, the second largest of Ireland, we 
see the wildest of scenery and stretches entire!}^ un- 
cultivated. In this county there are 130 lakes. 

The western pax't of Ireland is mountainous and 
rocky. Between the hills are moor lands, bogs, and 
valleys. Along the shores the cliffs are steep, some 
of them being hundreds of feet high. There are 
many caves on this coast, and islands where the sea 
fowl live, just as on the eastern coast. 



A LITTLE JOURNEY TO IRELAND. 



33 




POULAPANCA FALLS, IRELAND. 



34 



A LITTLE JOURNEY TO IRELAND. 



We find no towns on the coast, excepting Galway 
and a few fishing villages. 




CO^NEMAEA MOUNTAINS, ERRIFP PASS, AND PEASANT'S PWRM AND HOME. 



GALWAY. 

Galway is the capital of western Ireland and boasts 
a population of about 15,000. It is said to be the 
nearest point to the" American coast. It is a quiet 
town and has not the enterprise of the seaport towns 
of the eastern coast. 

Many years ago Galway carried on a large trade 



A LITTLE JOURNEY TO IRELAND. 



35 



with Spain, and the Spaniards who came here have 
many descendents in Gal way to-day. Numbers of the 
people have dark eyes and hair and dark complexions. 
In some parts of the city we see houses built like those 
of Spain, and the women wear their clothes much after 
the fashion of Spanish women. They like bright col- 




GALWAY SCEXERY. 



ors, and wear black and blue cloaks, thrown over the 
head after the manner of the women whom we saw in 
Cuba and Mexico. 

One of the interesting parts of the town to visit is 
Claddagh, the fishers' quarters near the harbor. Here 



36 A LITTLE JOURNEY TO IRELAND. 

we find the people clinging to the ancient Irish lan- 
guage, customs and dress. They have nothing to do 
with the other people of the town and have their own 
government. 

These people are very superstitious and on days that 
they think unlucky they will not go out in their fish- 
ing boats even if they should see the bay full of fish. 
They are very jealous of their right as fishers in Gal- 
way Bay^ and fishers who intrude are apt to have 
their nets cut. 

Not far from Gal way is Limerick. It is situated on 
the Shannon River, the longest river in Ireland and 
celebrated for its salmon. 

The Shannon flows through a large number of lakes, 
the largest being Lough Derg. At one place in the 
river is Doonas Rapids, where the whole river pours 
over the rocks for half a mile in steep descent. It is 
a most beautiful and picturesque spot. 

LIMERICK. 

Limerick is the fourth city in population in Ireland. 
It claims 37,000 people. It is celebrated for the man- 
ufacture of lace and fish-hooks. Two kinds of lace 
are made, pillow lace and loom lace. The pillow lace 
is made by hand. The women work the patterns on 
small pillows. This is much finer and more expensive 
than that made by machinery. 

Of course we must buy lace to take home, but 
the fish-hooks we have no use for. But if tourists do 
not buy many fish-hooks, the Irish people do, for Ire- 
land's fisheries are valuable. 

The women of Limerick are said to be the prettiest 



A LITTLE JOURNEY TO IRELAND. 



37 



of all the women of Ireland. Many of them have dark 
Spanish faces, like those we saw in Galway, but others 
have gray or hazel eyes, brown hair, pale complexions, 
and oval faces. They are very graceful, and in their 
talk and actions make us think of American women. 




AT INNISFALLEX, LAKES OF KILLARNEY. 

LAKES OF KILLARNEY. 

Few people ever come to Ireland, even for a brief 
visit, without a trip to the Killarney country. It is 



38 A LITTLE JOURNEY TO IRELAND. 

called the jewel of Ireland, and it is certainly the 
most beautiful spot we have found in all Ireland, or 
any other land. 

This trip takes several days, and much of the time 
must be spent on the jaunting car. The lakes lie in a 
deep valley surrounded by high mountains. Each lake 
is dotted with tiny islands and is bordered by beauti- 
ful shores. 

Killarney is a little town of about six thousand. 
We go from this place to the famous Gap of Dunloe 
and then to the upper lake. This gap is a narrow, 
deep ravine between rocks which in places are over 
3,000 feet high. It is four miles in length, and we 
must walk through it or use sure footed little 
ponies that know their w^ay. A little stream flows the 
length of the chasm. Huge overhanging rocks darken 
the pathway and make it very gloomy. Our Irish 
guide tells us that a giant, by one stroke of his sword, 
divided the mountains and left them apart in this way. 
This is the place w^here St. Patrick is said to have ban- 
ished the last snake of Ireland. 

At the upper lake we take a boat and continue our 
trip on water. A channel leads from this to the Mid- 
dle Lake. It is very narrow and in one place is a per- 
pendicular cliff two thousand feet high, called Eagle's 
Nest. This is noted for its echoes. When we cry out 
''Hello," the word is echoed again and again. Going 
on our way it seems that the islands in this lake 
are without number. By and by we come to Middle 
Lake ajid to an old bridge, through which the boats 
are swiftly carried by the force of the current. 



A LITTLF. JOURNEY TO IRELAND. 



39 



In the Lower Lake is a lovely island called Ross 
Island. It has been turned into a park which is open 
to the public. Upon its shore stands Ross Castle in 
ruins and nearly covered with ivy. 

There are many legends connected with this island, 
and these the Irish people declare to be true. One of 
the legends tells us that every seven years a member 




OLD WIER BRIDGE, KILLARNEV. 



of the O'Donohue family, who formerly owned the 
castle, comes from his grave and rides on a white horse 
over to his old home. The instant he reaches it he 
blows a blast of his horn and the castle is rebuilt as if 
by magic, and just as it was hundreds of years ago. 
With the dawn of day the castle falls into ruins again. 
A little way from Ross is Innisfallen Island, the gem 
of all the lakes, of which Moore has told us. 



40 



A LITTLE JOURNEY TO IRELAND. 



L„, 




A LITTLE JOURNEY TO IRELAND. 



41 



" Sweet Innisf alien, long shall dwell 
In memory's dream that sunny smile, 
Which o'er thee on that evening fell, 
When first I saw that fairy isle." 

Near Killarney are the ruins of Muckross Abbey. 
These are in the grounds belonging to a park. The 
owner charges us a shilling to see the church and mon- 
astery. The money paid by tourists for this privilege 
is used to keep the place in repair. 




ROSS CASTLE. KILLARNEY. 



IRISH CASTLES. 

We find the ruins of these old abbeys, castles and 
fortresses extremely interesting. After seeing the 
many strongholds and fortified castles throughout the 
country we are ready to believe the ancient Irish were a 



42 A LITTLE JOURNEY TO IRELAND. 

warlike race. These castles have usually been situated 
on secluded Httle islands in lakes, like Ross Castle, on 
hills that commanded a view of the surrounding plains 
or valley, or oxi high rocky points or promontories, as 
those on the northern coast. 

The chiefs selected these places because it enabled 
them to defend themselves from their enemies. There 
was little law in the country and each chief was 
obliged to defend his own castle. He gathered about 
him all the people of his own clan or family, his ten- 
ants and servants, and armed them. 

Watch towers were erected and in these towers 
watchmen were constantly on guard. When the en- 
emy was seen approaching an alarm was given and 
the people employed on the land of the nobleman all 
flocked to the shelter of the castle. 

The walls of the castle were of stone and very thick 
and high. The castle was also surrounded by a deep, 
wide ditch called a moat. Across the moat was a 
bridge that might be drawn up in case of an attack. 
Thick, heavy iron doors at the end of the bridge,'ad- 
mitted one to the castle. 

Underneath the castle were dungeons for prisoners, 
for there were no prisons in those days. If enemies 
were captured they were kept in these places. In the 
center of the castle was a great hall, where not only 
the chief or nobleman, but all his friends, relatives, 
servants and tenants could eat at the same time. At 
such times whole roasted oxen, sheep and pigs were 
served on a long, rude table. How we would like to 
have seen one of these companies. 



A LITTLE JOURNEY TO IRELAND. 



43 



The banquet halls are in ruins now. In many cases 
little but the walls of the building remain. The floors 
and roof are fallen in; the windows without glass, or 
even sash. Yet the ruins are beautiful because cov- 
ered from cellar to roof with a green mat of ivy. 

Every castle has a most interesting history and a 
ghost story. The people themselves believe the ghost 
stories just as firmly as the history of each castle. 




MUCKRASS ABBEY. KILLARXEY. 



CORK. 

Now let us journey on to Cork, almost the last city 
we shall visit. It is situated on the river Lee, about 
twelve miles from Cork and Queenstown harbor. It is 
Ireland's third city in size, numbering 100,000 
people. 



44 



A LITTLE JOURNEY TO IRELAND. 



Cork's Cathedral, St. Finbar's, is one of the finest 
of Ireland and well worth a visit, but St. Anne's 
Church is the one that attracts most tourists. Its 




ST. FINBAR'S CATHEDRAL, CORK. 



steeple is visible from every part of the city. This 
Shandon steeple is composed of red and white lime- 
stone, three sides being white and one red. It con- 
tains the famous Shandon bells, of which Father Prout 
has told us: 



A LITTLE JOURNEY TO IRELAND. 45 

The bells of Shandon, 
They sound so grand on 
The pleasant waters 
Of the river Lee, 

The people are very proud of their ''Queen's Col- 
lege," which is on a height overlooking the city and 
commands a fine view. 

Cork is sometimes called the "Beautiful City," be- 
cause of its lovely surrounding country, its trees and 
grassy lawns, but we find also much poverty and 
squalor. 

At the end of St. Patrick street we are shown a 
bronze statue of Father Mathew, of whom the people 
speak with much affection and gratitude. And well 
they may, for he has done more for Ireland than any 
man since the days of St. Patrick. 

Sixty-two years ago Ireland was one of the most 
intemperate countries in the world. It seemed almost 
hopelessly degraded and beggared by drink. Father 
Mathew was a Catholic priest living in Cork. He saw 
the misery and want brought by the use of drink 
and began to preach temperance to the people of his 

city. 

When he had persuaded many of them to sign the 
pledge he traveled about to other cities forming tem- 
perance societies and asking people to do so. In two 
and a half years two and a half million people took 
the pledge, and before his work was completed five 
million people had signed the pledge. 

St. Patrick's Bridge, crossing the Lee in the center 
of Cork, is broader than any bridge across the Thames 
excepting the Westminster Bridge at London. 



46 A i/iri'i-i'; .((mirniov m'o iiM'iiiAND. 

'l\u\ river is ji;u;ii(l('(l vvilJi lliick \v;ills liiic*! vvilli 
.shipping iiH far .*ih (Ik- eye c'lii sec Alon^ \\u\ livcr is 
n cclehralod i)r()in('iia(l(' c'lllcd I lie IVI.'irdykc. It is a 
(iiic, lno.'id .'ivcinic slicllcicd hy iiui^niliccul, old elm 
trees. No c.'in'i.'i^es are nllovvecl on this Mvemie, hiil 
people stroll ll|) JUid down in the sh.'idc of the ! ices ;dl 
(t'ly 1om;jj. 

( )ne of l,li(^ sif!;hts of Cork is the eonl (|ii;iy in I lie 
lower p;iit of Ihe ('ity d(»wn the rivei'. This is not ;i, 
(d;il (|iia,y in re;dity, hut ;i kiiul of I):i/;ii\ II is ;i Imi';.M' 
hiiildin^ dividcMl l>y I'ovvs of counters on which ;ir<';dl 
kinds of second hand ^oods. S;ilnrd;iy (>venin^';s Ihe 
pince is thronged with woikin^ people inlent on innkin;;' 
pnrch.'ises or .'innisin^ themselves. Sonu^inies inei- 
(•hauls mount upon boxes or eounlers juid exiol IIh' 
merits of lluMr i!;oods with a i';re;it {\i'i\\ ol chMjucnce. 
Numhersof Ihe persons in I li(> plnce ;ire so i;i|!;,t!;ed lh:il 
they remind us of scareciows, Hut I his does not pi"e- 
vent I hem fi'om enjoynif:; themselves, ;md Ih" scene \s 
n lively one. 

iMi: im:()i>i I: oi iri;!,ani). 

The people of Ireland li.'ive a Inn^uagoof their own, 
.MS have Ihe Welsh .'Uid Scotch, hut Mnjjjlish is (he 
l;in,ii;u.'i|j;e in most p.'irts of Ihe country. It is s.'iid Ih.-il 
not more thnii one sixth of Ihe |)eopl(^ use the ;mcie!it 
I rish loiiL!;ue. 

The educ.'ited, wejlltliy and well-to-do people li\-e 
much .MS I he SMine cI.mss of people li\-e in Mn,i;I.Mnd or 
Ihe United Slates. The |)(\Ms;ints, f.Mrm(M's and Inhor- 
crH, however, li\'e (|uite differently, miuI llu^y are Ihe 



A Ll'n'LK .fOVHSKY '\<> IlfhLA .J>. 47 

])('.()\)\(: whom wc winh rnoHt to WMi. The poaHantfi 
r:lirjf( to old hahitH and cMHUmiH that ono dof;H not find 
among the higher (:hiHH4'.H, and for this reason the 
traveller finds much more of interr«t in their lives, 
lliis is true of every country whc;re a peasant class 
exists. 

The Irish peasants are kindly, good naturr;d, quick- 
wif ted, generou-i and energetic. Their active out-of- 
door life mitke-s them healthy arid strong. In the 
nrirth we find them neat, diligent anri progressive, but 
this is not true of all, 

lliey are extremely hc^spitable peof^ir-, cfieerfully 
sharing their last bite with a needy neighbor. The 
Irish have the most cheerful, hopeful, happy (Wtiponi- 
tions of any people in the world, 'i'hey may not have 
a penny or a bite to eat and yet can enjoy t hern- 
,s^;lves, laugfjing and dancing, and singing as gaily all 
the while as tho they were the most lucky mortals on 
earth. If there is any work they are ready to do it. 
If not, it dfKfS not appear to worry thern. 

They are a very .social pr^ople, and fond of visiting. 
At nigFit after tfie day's work is done they gather in 
groups in the cabins clustered near each other, and 
spend the time talking, smoking and singing together. 
They are extremely fond of amus^.-rnents and hold 
many fairs, dancf.-s and fentivals. Music is with them 
a favorite recreation. 

In appearance they are just as different as the parts 
of the country in which they live. In the north we 
foun/lthe people with light complexions and blueeyf^; 
in the central and mountainous districts they have 



48 



A LITTLE JOURNEY TO IRELAND. 



gray eyes, brown hair, and short strong figures. 
The people of the west are dark and have graceful fig- 
ures. But almost all have fine complexions. 

While at work about their homes and in the fields 
both men and women go about with bare heads and 
feet. The women wear short skirts of coarse material, 
loose cotton waists and large aprons. When attend- 



Fm^.. 




'L^r 






%4 





CORK. 



ing fairs or parties the young girls who can afford it, 
wear bright cotton dresses, thick shoes and yarn stock- 
ings. 

In the south of Ireland the women go about the 
streets with shawls drawn over their heads, leaving 
us only a glimpse of their bright eyes. 

The older women wear cloaks with hoods for the 



A LITTLE JOURNEY TO IRELAND. 



49 



head in case of rain. These cloaks are very precious 
possessions, for they cost large sums of money , at least 
they are large to the poor people who buy them. 
They last a life time and longer, for they are handed 
down from one generation to another. 




AN IRISH PEASANT WOMAN WITH PEAT BASKET. 

HOW THEY LIVE. 

Very, very few of these people own their own homes, 
or farms. They rent their tiny cabins and little pat- 
ches of land and raise a few potatoes and vegetables. 
These do not require much labor and the women and 
girls usually assist with this, as in England. 



50 A LITTLE JOURNEY TO IRELAND. 

We have seen how their homes look and something 
of their manner of hving in Dubhn. It is much the 
same all over the country. 

Ireland has the finest of roads and good bridges, 
and driving through any part of the country is a 
delight to the traveller. Cork lies in the midst of a 
rich farming region, but there is much poor soil in the 
southern part of the island. The farmer has a hard 
time to make a living there. 

There seems to be no waste land. It is all occupied 
or used for farms, and every place is fenced and 
worked, even the mountain and bog lands. 

The fences are not like ours. Sometimes they are 
ridges or mounds, set at the top with furz or gorse. 
Sometimes they are hedges of white thorn. But in 
parts of the country where the land is, or was stony, 
the fields are enclosed with stone walls. The farmers 
find this a good way to dispose of the stones in the 
soil. 

Ireland is too wet for any crops but potatoes, oats, 
flax and grass. If the season is unusually rainy, the 
potato crop rots, and then there is much suffering, for 
the people depend upon this article of food almost 
entirely.^ 

You may have supposed that the potato was a na- 
tive of Ireland, but this is not the case. The potato 
which we call the Irish potato was brought from 
America. It proved to be so well adapted to the soil 
that it soon became the principal food product. 

The pig is a very important part of the poor man's 
possessions. Every family tries to keep at least one. 



A LITTLE JOURNEY TO IRELAND. 



51 



The peasants depend upon it for their meat, unless 
they should happen to live near the seashore. In that 
case fish is substituted. • 






t^g... ^m^-^ 




AN IRISH FARMYARD. 



In a special time of need, such as weddings, funer- 
als or sickness, or rent da}^, the precious pig is driven 
to the nearest market and disposed of. If there 



52 A LITTLE JOURNEY TO IRELAND. 

should be but one, the family must get along without 
the Sunday dinner of bacon until another little porker 
can be bought and fattened. It is a wonder how the 
pig can grow fat on such poor, scant fare as he gets, 
and sometimes he does not. 

Here is the home of a well-to-do farmer. Notice 
the wagon in his yard. It is exactly like those we 
have seen the peasants use in hauling produce to town. 
It is a kind of cart with two large wheels. The farmer 
is going to market and is just ready to start. 

This market is at a country town not far away, and 
so we decide to drive there, too. 

PEAT BOGS. 

Our ride takes us through one of the peat bogs of 
which we have heard so much. If we were to try 
to walk through this .bog, we would find thick, black 
mud under the pretty growth of green. Stepping 
from one tuft of grass to another is not an easy thing 
to do, and we would sink to the knees in mud before 
we went very far. 

In some parts of the country are quaking bogs, and 
these are dangerous places, for they are really lakes, 
whose surfaces are covered with growing plants and 
earth. These in time become bogs of peat also. Dur- 
ing a heavy rain a quagmire sometimes becomes filled 
with water, like a sponge, andj^swells until it bursts. 
It then sends out a stream of black, liquid mud, and 
covers everything near by. Sometimes whole villages 
have been overwhelmed in this way. 

The men working in a peat bog near the road inter- 
est us very much, for we wish to see how the people 



A LITTLE JOURNEY TO IRELAND. 



53 



procure their fuel. The men are digging it and the 
women carrying it home in baskets. It would seem 
that this was work better suited to men. When the 
family can afford to keep a donkey, the baskets of 
peat are fastened to its back, and thus lightens the 
labors of the women. Some of this peat is stored in 




BEGGARS. 



the cottage, but most of it is piled up in stacks 
near-by. 

After the peat and potatoes have been dug, there is 
little employment for the men, unless they live near 
cities where factories need their services, and much of 
the time no work can be secured. 



54 A LITTLE JOURNEY TO IRELAND. 

See these beggars coming down the road. They 
have some shamrocks which they wish to sell us, and 
beg us so earnestly to buy that we have not the heart 
to refuse. 

Much of our pleasure in travelling in Ireland is taken 
away by the sight of so much poverty and suffering. 
In some places we are surrounded by hordes of beg- 
gars. It is almost impossible to get away from them. 
If we give to one, a dozen others clamor for a gift. K 
we refuse and walk away, they follow us for blocks, 
and even miles, with oft repeated plaintive requests. 

Sometimes tourists pretend to be deaf in order tc 
get rid of them. Sometimes they hire a jaunting car; 
thinking by driving to get rid of their nuisance, but 
they even climb up into the carriage and hang on lui- 
til forcibly put off. 

They will declare with tears in their eyes that- they 
are dying of starvation, and perhaps the next instant, 
be laughing and chatting with friends, or dancing a jig 
on the cobble stones. 

Many of these people are entirely dependent upon 
what they can beg from travelers, and they train their 
children to beg. It is a pitiful sight to see so many 
tiny children and mothers with babies in their arms, 
suffering for food. They have a great dread of the 
work house and prefer to secure a scanty living in this 
way rather than to be cared for at one of these public 
institutions. Some of them have no roof to shelter 
them and spend their nights at some wayside cottage, 
sleeping by the fire. 



A LITTLE JOURNEY TO IRELAND. 55 

SHAMROCK. 

The shamrock we have just bought is the national 
flower of Ireland, just as ihe thistle is of Scotland and 
the rose is of England. If you will look carefully at 
the British coat-of-arms you will see the three flowers 
growing from one stem. It is a triple leaved delicate 
little plant, very much like the white clover. It 
grows on the stone walls, and by the roadside where 
the soil is poor and trodden hard, and so insignificant 
is it that we overlooked it entirely at first. But tho 
plain to our eyes, it is beautiful to the loyal Irish peo- 
ple. They love it and never fail to wear it on' St. 
Patrick's day. The little children are taught to love 
it too, and to cry "Erin go bragh," which means ''Ire- 
land forever." (See cut of flag.) 

THE HARKET. 

We meet numbers of people also on their way to 
market as we near the town. There are well-to-do 
farmers driving traps or jaunting cars, small farmers 
driving two wheeled donkey carts; men and women 
mounted upon or leading heavily laden donkeys, and 
still others walking. Even the smallest cart is sure to 
be well filled, for all the peasants are not so fortunate 
as to own a conveyance, and must depend upon their 
neighbors for a ''hft" to town. 

Some of the farmers have their carts filled with cans 
of milk. These are to be taken not to market l^ut to 
the creamery, where it will be made up into butter for 
the English market. 



56 A LITTLE JOURNEY TO IRELAND. 

Some of the carts and donkeys are loaded with 
potatoes and others with peat. The peat is hawked 
from house to house in the town. It is cut into blocks 
about four times as large as a brick. 

The town we are entering looks much like the other 
small towns we have seen. The streets are narrow 
and have no side-walks. The buildings consist of 
a large Roman Catholic chapel, a small church, a bank, 
a hotel, a market house, shops and dwellings. The 
most of the houses are of stone and very small. 

The market place is an interesting and curious 
sight. We have to go through mud and run the 
chance of being upset by a pig or cart, but we do not 
mind that. The market is a good place to study the 
manners and customs of a people. The women are 
some of them very beautiful, but the men are not 
so attractive. The women wear shawls over their 
heads, or blue or red cloaks, and petticoats of bright 
colors, but many of the dresses are ragged and not 
over clean. 

Some people are leading pigs or goats and others 
are carrying eggs, fowls and vegetables, which they 
have brought in from the country. Some of them 
walk long distances to come to market. 

While generous in giving, and willing to share their 
last crust with a needy neighbor, the Irish are close, 
hard bargainers. They express great surprise or anger 
at the prices offered or asked, and haggle and argue 
about everything. 

Some of the bargains are concluded with a glass of 
whiskey, and to refuse this would be considered a very 



A LITTLE JOURNEY TO IRELAND. 



57 



great breach of manners. One glass is pretty sure to 
lead to another, however, and then fights often occur. 




MARKET DAY. 



The people hold many fairs, the most noted of these 
being Donny Brook Fair. This was celebrated for the 
number of fights in which the people engaged as the 
result of too much drinking. The Irishman usually 
uses hi? fists in these rough and tumble fights, but he 
sometimes carries another weapon. 

This is a club of oak or blackthorn, called shillalah. 
It is called by this name because the sticks are cut 
from oak trees at Shillelagh, which is famous for its 
oaks. 

Here is a little country inn. Let us stop for supper. 



58 



A LITTLE JOURNEY TO IRELAND. 




AX OLD COUNTRY INN. 



The rooms at the inn have bare hard wood floors 
and small windows set deep in the stone walls. But 
there are curtains at the windows and everything 
looks neat and clean. The landlady seems very anx- 
ious to make us comfortable and soon has the table 
spread and luncli placed upon it. 

In the center of the tea table are placed a large 
square loaf of bread, a quarter of a cheese, a plate of 
butter and another of cold roast beef. There is also a 
sugar bowl, milk pitcher, tea pot and a little box of 
tea. The tea kettle sits by the side of the grate, and 
we are expected to make our own tea, and cut our 
own bread. The landlady runs in and out every few 
minutes, and asks us many questions about America, 
before the meal is over. 



A LITTLE JOURNEY TO IRELAND. 59 

The clay is growing chilly, and we are glad to find a 
cheerful peat fire in the great Uving room of the inn. 

Around this fire a group of laboring men are gath- 
ered. One of them is dancing a jig, "and holding a 
pipe between his teeth all the while. The others are 
talking, smoking, or drinking glasses of porter wdiich a 
little maid-servant brings to them. This is the way 
they spend thjeir evenings after their work is done, and 
their days, too, when there is no work. 

CHILD LIFE. 

The children of Ireland are certainly the happiest, 
merriest little people in the world. This to us seems 
very strange when we see how many of them live. Often 
they have not enough to eat, and little to wear. But 
though they are ragged and dirty and hungry they 
sing and dance and bubble over with fun and frolic. 

They do not mind the rainy weather in the least. 
They are not afraid of spoiling their good clothes for 
the very good reason that they have none. Most of 
their time is spent in the open air, and perhaps this is 
the reason they grow up to be strong and hearty. 

Among the peasants or, poor people the boys and 
girls wear but one garment, and this is apt to be rag- 
ged. They have no hats or shoes. The boys dress 
just as their sisters do until they are nine or ten years 
of age, when they are put into trousers. 

Some of us who are apt to grumble when our meals 
are not quite to our liking are made ashamed of our 
discontent when we see what these children have for 
their food. For breakfast, oatmeal mush and milk; 
for dinner, potatoes and milk; for supper, mush with- 



60 A LITTLE JOTTRNEY TO IRELAND. 

out milk, very often. On Sundays and holidays, as a 
special treat they have a chicken or a bit of bacon and 
perhaps cabbage. And very glad and thankful they 
are to get enough of this simple food. 

The little ones learn to work very early in life if 
their parents are working people. They help in the 
field with the potatoes and other crops. Along the 
coast they gather seaweed and limpets. Sometimes 
the boys are allowed to go fishing with their fathers, 
and then they bring home cod, mackerel and herring. 
If they catch a great many, the children help to pack 
the fish in salt to keep it for winter use. The seaweed 
is used both for food and to enrich the land. 

In many homes we see the girls busily engaged in 
weaving linen thread into lace. Along the coast they 
make a kind of twine of the flax. This twine is used 
in making fish nets. 

Sometimes the children go about wath tourists as 
guides, and sometimes they sell bouquets of shamrock 
flowers, bits of bog, oak or heather. And many of them 
beg. 

We are surrounded almost every day by crowds of 
little ones, all begging for a penny. Sometimes they 
even climb into our carriage. The quickest w^ay to 
get rid of them is to throw a handful of pennies by the 
roadside. In the twinkling of an eye every pretty 
winsome rogue scampers after them and then off we 
drive. 

The first important event in the Irish child's life is 
its baptism. Among the Catholics this is made much 
of. A feast is prepared, friends are invited and a time 
of rejoicing follows. 



A LITTLE JOURN-EY TO IRELAND. 



61 




SCHOOLYARD. 



The children are early taught the principles of relig- 
ion, and the history of the Church. The priest keeps 
a watchful eye on the children of his parish and helps 
in their training. Aside from these lessons, however, 
the education of the poorer children is not of the best. 
The children of the wealthy people have the best of 
advantages, of course, just as they do in our own 
country. Their home life is also very much like that 
of the children of the States, or of England. When 
the peasant children go to school they must take a 
penny each week. In winter they must also carry 



62 A TJTTLE JOTTRXEY TO mET.AND. 

turf for the school fire. If the family is so fortunate 

as to own a donkey the peat is carried on its back in a 

basket. If there is no donkey each child carries his 

sod of turf. 

EDUCATION. 

The great poverty of the Irish people has prevented 
many of them from giving their children good edu- 
cational advantages, but there are many fine schools 
and colleges throughout Ireland, for those who can af- 
ford to attend them. The University of Dublin and 
Trinity- College are famous throughout the country. 
Tlie Queen's University has colleges at Belfast, Cork 
and Galway. 

Ireland's universities have always been famous, and 
formerly drew students from all parts of Europe. 

There are many national schools, church schools and 

private and day schools scattered throughout the 

country. : 

THE RELIGIONS OF IRELAND. 

With the Irish people religion comes before all. 
We see this in every act of the people. When they 
enter a house they greet the family with a "God Save 
all here." When one w^ayfarer meets another a hearty 
''God save you kindly" is passed. Wlien trouble and 
suffering come they look upon it as the ''will of God" 
and endure their misfortune patiently. 

About four fifths of the people are Roman Catholics, 
one-eighth are Episcopalians and a tenth Presbyterians. 

Many of the Scotch-Irish are Presbyterians, and the 
population of Belfast is almost equally divided be- 
tween Catholics and Protestants, but all the rest of 
the countr}^ is Catholic. 



A LITTLE JOURNEY TO IRELAND. 63 

There is a large party in Ireland called the Orange- 
men, a secret society of Protestants. This party is 
constantly at war Avith the Catholics, and when on 
holidays, either of these societies parade, the other is 
pretty sure to ridicule, stone and abuse the rival party. 
Sometimes these wars are carried on in other coun- 
trie:>, for we have heard of Orange riots in America. 

THE PRIEST. 

The most important and influential person in the 
Irish town is the priest. He is the busiest man in all 
the country round. His flock is large and usually a 
poor one, and it is not often that his door step is with- 
out an applicant for help or advice. 

No funeral, wedding or christening can be conduc- 
ted without him. He is the prominent figure at parties 
and festivals of all kinds. No ceremony is complete 
without his blessing, and he is always a welcome and 
much loved guest. 

The priest's home is a very splendid place in the 
eyes of the poor folk of his parish. The books and pic- 
tures, the little comforts and luxuries to be found 
there are subjects of wonder and admiration to them. 

If they are in Avant they turn to their good priest 
for aid, and it usually comes, and from his own purse. 
Happy and proud are the father and mother of an 
Irish priest, and it is the hope and prayer of every 
devout Irish mother that her boy may be called to 
this high place in life. 

THE DRUIDS. 

Scattered about the country are many stones that 
look like tombstones. These stones have stood here 



64 A LITTLI] JOURNEY TO IRELAND. 

for many centuries — monuments of Ireland's early 
religion. The people worshipped through priests called 
Druids. They were taught to worship the sun, moon 
and fire, and to offer up human sacririces to their 
gods. 

For this purpose they built stone altars, upon which 
to lay sacrifices. These altars were called brom 
lichs, and consisted of rough stone pillars upon 
which rested a large flat table stone. Sometimes men, 
women and children were fastened together, put into 
cages and burned alive, as human sacrifices. 

The priests worshipped in the open air, in groves. 
Their favorite places were the oak groves. The places 
where they performed their religious rites were sacred 
and were fenced about with stones to keep out in- 
truders. 

There is much about their religion that we do not 
know, because their priests would not allow their mys- 
teries to be written. Everything was taught by word 
of mouth only, and in this way the religion was kept 
alive and yet secret from the world. 

You wonder perhaps how those people who could 
neither read nor write, and who were so ignorant and 
superstitious, could have become Christians, as they 
are toda}^ 

It was due largely to the efforts and work of a very 
good man who came to Ireland as a slave, and was 
afterwards sainted. 

THE STORY OF ST. PATRICK. 

Ireland is sometimes called^the ''Isle of Saints" be- 
cause it has been the home of so many sainted men. 



A LITLLE JOURNEY TO IRELAND. 65 

First in rank among them is Saint Patrick, the patron 
saint of Ireland, whom every boy is taught to revere 
and respect. 

It was he who converted the people from Druidism 
to the Christian faith, and so he has been called the 
Apostle of Ireland. It is in his memory that the 
people wear the shamrock on the 17th of March. This 
was the day of his birth and also of his death. 

Some say he was born in Scotland, and was the son 
of a clergyman. Others, that he was a Frenchman, 
the son of a prosperous citizen of Boulogne. But at 
any rate this does not matter. He became a very good 
Irishman in time. 

When a lad of about sixteen he was captured by 
Irish pirates who visited his home, was carried to Ire- 
land and sold as a slave. His master, who was a chief 
or nobleman, set him to keep his sheep. For six 
years the boy remained with this master. 

A shepherd has a lonely life and plenty of time to 
think; and as Patrick lay out on the hills by night, 
watching his flocks, his mind was always busy. He 
often thought of his own people, and how he might 
escape from his master and get back to them. 

But his chief thought was of the heathen Irish. He 
saw that they were kind hearted people, and willing 
to learn, but that they often did foolish and cruel 
things, because no one had ever taught them a better 
way of life. 

At last, after long and weary waiting, Patrick was 
able to sUp away without being seen, and made his 
way to the seashore. There he found a ship which 
carried him back to his own home. 



66 A LITTLE JOURNEY TO IRELAND. 

Now that he was free once more, he did not forget 
his Irish friends, or their needs. He set to work at 
once to learn from the wisest and best men lie could 
find, so that he might become a priest or minister. 

He went to the Pope, who was the head of the 
Catholic church, and asked him for help that he might 
go back to the Irish people and teach them a better 
way of living. When this was granted he started 
back to the land he had left so many years ago, a 
slave. He took with him a ship and a few friends to 
assist him. 

He tried to land near Dublin, but the people would 
not permit him to do so. He then went northward 
and landed in Antrim, where he had been a slave. 
There was a herdsman keeping cattle near the shore 
when Patrick's ship came in, and when he saw the 
strangers he thought they must be pirates. 

He left his herd, and ran swiftly to the home of his 
master and told him to make ready to defend himself. 
.The chief took his sword, his spear and shield, gathered 
his servants and tenants and armed them, and then 
came down to the shore to drive away the invaders 
or new-comers. 

He was much astonished when he found who they 
were. When their errand was known he welcomed 
them kindly to his house. Here Patrick and his fol- 
lowers staid for a time and before they went away the 
chief had become a Christian. 

From this time on, for more than fifty years, Pat- 
rick devoted himself to the work he had set himself to 
do. He went from place to place preaching and teach- 
ing. This was not an easy or pleasant thing to do in 
those times, for he had many enemies. 



A LITTLE JOURNEY TO IRELAND. 67 

The Druid priests tried to drive him out of the 
country, and he was often in danger of his hfe. The 
people at first did not understand what Patrick want- 
ed, and did not hke to give up their heathen worship 
of the sun, and moon, of stones and water, trees and 
fairies. 

Neither did they like the new laws which were made 
by wise men of Ireland, at Patrick's advice, tho they 
were better than the old ones. The Irish could not 
read the books Patrick brought with him, for they 
did not know the letters. 

The teachers therefore cut the alphabet on thin flat 
laths of wood about a yard long and two inches broad, 
and gave them to the people so that they might copy 
them, and in this way learn to read. 

It is said that Ireland was once infested with snakes 
and that St. Patrick drove them all out. In Wicklow 
county, near Dublin, is a lake called Lower Lake, 
about a fourth of a mile long. Into this it is said the 
last of the snakes was banished. This is supposed to 
mean that there he overthrew the last of serpent wor- 
ship, which was practiced by the Irish when he came 
to Ireland. A rich man in the north of Ireland gave 
him a little plat of land on a hill-top, and there he 
built a church and a little house for himself and fol- 
lowers. 

This church is the most famous of all that Patrick 
built, and it is the chief one of Ireland to this day. 
Before Patrick died the greater part of the people be- 
came Christians through his teaching. 

The work begun by Patrick was carried on by other 
good men until Ireland was famed throughout Europe 



08 A LITTLE JOURNEY TO IRELAND, 

for its piety and learning. Its preachers and teachers 
were sent to all parts of Europe, and Ireland took fore- 
most rank in religion and learning. 

THE ANCIENT IRISH. 

In olden times Ireland was ruled by a king, assisted 
by several chiefs. The Island was divided into prov- 
inces, and these were inhabited by tribes or clans, 
each having its chief. The land was held in common 
by all the members of the tribe. They did very little 
farming, but devoted most of their time to raising 
cattle, sheep and horses. Their cattle were their most 
valued possessions. 

They lived in little villages on the islands in the 
lakes, or on the hill-sides. Their houses were made of 
wood and not much larger than the huts of the peas- 
ants of to-day. Walls of earth or stone were built 
about the houses as a means of defense, for these 
tribes were always at war with each other. 

They called their land Erin, which the English 
changed to Ireland. They had a language of their 
own, which is still spoken in some parts of the coun- 
try, but English has now become the language of the 
country. 

The cavins, cromlechs, pillar stones, round towers, 
dunes or defenses of stone, and stone-roofed buildings, 
wliich are found scattered throughout the country, are 
the remains of these ancients. Among these are great 
numbers of round or oval structures of earth and 
stone, called bee-hive houses. There are curious build- 
ings built of long thin stones arranged in layers, over- 
lapping one another. Some of them are in clusters 
underground. 



A LITTLE JOURNEY TO IRELAND 



69 




70 A LITTLE JOURNEY TO IRELAND. 

AN OLD CUSTOM. 

In small villages where the only events of impor- 
tance are weddings or funerals it is customary to hold 
a wake at the home of the dead person the night or 
nights before the burial. The term means to watch 
and is the watching of a dead body all night by the 
friends and neighbors of the deceased. 

The custom no doubt originated in a superstitious 
fear of passing the night alone with a dead body or of 
its being interfered with by evil spirits. 

The Irish peasant's ambition is to have a decent 
funeral and a fine wake, and he economizes and saves for 
years to secure mone}' for this purpose. He lays aside 
good garments in which to array his l)ody for burial, in 
order that his friends ma}^ not have to purchase them. 

After death the body is laid on a table or bed, 
dressed in white linen. Black ribbons are added if an 
adult, white if unmarried, and flowers if a child. 
Lighted candles are placed around the body. 

The friends all come, for to stay away would be to show 
disrespect for the dead. The house is always crowded. 

Benches, stools and chairs are borrowed for the oc- 
casion and food and drink provided for the enter- 
tainment of guests. The old women of the neighbor- 
hood are given the most comfortable seats near the 
fireplace and provided with snuff and pipes. 

After the people have gathered at the home, they 
sit about the room containing the corpse, chatting, and 
exchange remarks about the dead friend until the 
mourners arrive. The women of the household then 
gather around and the mourning begins. 



A LITTLE JOURNEY TO IRELAND. 71 

After a season of wailing an old woman speaks of 
the virtues of the dead and these remarks are followed 
by more weeping on the part of relatives and friends. 

About midnight refreshments are passed. These 
usually consist of bread, butter and tea, and whiskey, 
wine and porter. As the wake may be continued for 
three or four nights before the funeral takes place, 
the expense of entertainment is a heavy tax on the 
poor family. 

It was formerly the custom for professional mourn- 
ers, called ''keeners," to attend wakes, and in a few out 
of the way villages this is still customary. The keen- 
er is usually an old woman who has a gift for speak- 
ing, chanting or wailing loudly, and is paid for her 
services. She leads the mourners, wailing loudest of 
all. She sings a dirge describing the virtues of the 
departed. During this chant or song she keeps up a 
swaying motion of the body, at the foot of the corpse. 

At intervals she breaks out into a shrill cry or wail 
in which she is joined by others. 

THE BLARNEY STONE. 

P'ive miles from Cork is the busy little town of Blar- 
ney. There are cloth factories here which give employ- 
ment to the people, but it is not these we came to see. 
It is Blarney Castle, of which we have heard so much. 

The old castle stands on the side of a hill, on Ihe river 
Au-Martin. The castle is covered with ivy, and sur- 
rounded by beautiful grounds shaded with trees. Only 
a part of the castle is standing. The rest is in ruins. 

This castle is said to contain a stone that will give 
to any one who kisses it the gift of words. The Irish 



72 



A LITTLE JOURNEY TO IRELAND. 



poet, Father Prout, has written some verses about it 
which tell that 

There is a stone there, 
That whoever kisses. 
Oh, he never misses 
To grow eloquent. 




BLARNEY CASTLE. 



The stone is at the top of the tower, but so far 
down the side of the wall as to discourage all but very 
venturesome people. The only way to kiss the stone 
is to hang by the heels from the top of the tower. 

It seems to us that the Blarney Stone might better 



i 



A LITTLE JOURNEY TO IRELAND. 73 

be sent to some other country. The Irish people do 
not need it, for they are the readiest, wittiest and 
most eloquent talkers in the world. 

riANUFACTURES. 

We would like to visit some of the manufacturing 
towns, but time will not permit. The people tell us 
that the model town of Ireland, and of the world as 
well, is Bessbrook in Armagh. It is a woolen manu- 
facturing town, and four thousand people are em- 
ployed there. The remarkable thing about this town 
is that there are no saloons, poor-house, police station, 
and no pauper or policeman is to be found in the 
place. 

The seat of flannel industry is at Wicklow, and that 
of blankets at Kilkenny. More than 300,000 persons 
are employed in the making of lace and sewed muslin, 
carried on largely in Ulster, Munster and Connaught. 
Aside from these and the linen mills we have visited, 
Ireland has not many manufactories. There is one 
more, however, and that is the china works at Selleck, 
which produce a fine china. Selleck is one of the 
cleanest and prettiest towns in Ireland. 

EniQRATION. 

Wherever we go we find the people interested in 
America. Many of their friends and relatives are 
there, and some day they hope to join them. Many 
are the questions they ask us in regard to opportun- 
ities for making a living and homes for themselves in 
the States. The Irish people believe their poverty is 
largely due to the unjust laws of the English govern- 



74 A LITTLE JOURNEY TO IRELAND. 

ment; that Ireland ought to be a manufacturing and 
ship building country because of its fine harbors, 
millions of acres of peat fuel, and advantages in the 
way of transportation. England has always wished 
to keep it an agricultural country in spite of its poor 
soil. Ireland is only about as large as the State of 
Maine, but has a population of almost 5,000,000. The 
most of these people depend wholly upon the product 
of the soil, and it can not support so many, and pay 
the high rents and taxes imposed by England. 

We have seen that there are few large industries 
and manufactories to give work to the people. This 
condition is largely due to misgovernment. 

The best thing then for Ireland and the Irish people 
is for emigration to continue. In some of the poor 
homes about Cork we find preparations being made 
for the departure of the younger members of the fam- 
ily for America or Australia. The old people are too 
feeble to seek work or make new homes in a foreign 
land. 

In the streets of Cork we see many other emigrants, 
who have come in from other parts of the country. 
Some of these will go over on our own boat as ''steer- 
age passengers." 

We are told that in the last half century more than 
5,000,000 people have emigrated to the United States, 
Canada and Australia. The population of Ireland in 
1847 was 8,000,000, while it now numbers less than 
5,000,000. On inquiry as to the cause of this we are 
told of a terrible famine that occurred in 1846 and 
1847. 



A LITTLE JOURNEY TO IRELAND. 
THE FAMINE. 



75 



The great famine which began in 1846 was due to 
the failure of the potato crop. This crop, which 
promised well, was stricken with a deadly blight and 




THE FLOWER OF ERIN. 



in a few days the potatoes in the fields w^ere decayed 
and unfit for use. In many parts of the country the 



76 A LITTLE JOURNEY TO IRELAND. 

people depended almost entirely upon this product for 
food. When it failed, starvation faced them. 

The government and people in England and America 
sent aid as soon as possible. Soup kitchens were 
established, and storehouses, where food could be dis- 
tributed to the starving people. The workhouses 
were filled to overflowing, and sheds were built to 
shelter the overflow. 

But in spite of the money and provisions that were 
poured into the coimtry, thousands and thousands of 
the people died of starvation before the provisions sent 
for the relief of these people were taken across the 
country in cart-; and stored in places where they could 
be distributed to those who applied for aid. It was 
necessary for armed soldiers to accompany the relief 
supplies, else the food would have been taken by the 
hungr}^ people long before it reached the storehouses. 

As the cart loads of provisions went by, the star^•- 
ing peasants came out of their cottages and begged 
for just a few grains of corn or a handful of meal to 
keep them alive a little longer. Some were so weak 
for want of food that the}^ could not go to the store- 
houses or soup kitchens, and fell dead by the roadside. 
Sometimes whole families would be found dead, lying 
upon the floors of their cottages. Some of the kind- 
hearted landlords offered to pay the passage to Amer- 
ica or the colonies of numbers of those in want, and 
many accepted the offer. Those who found homes in 
the new country soon secured employment, and their 
first earnings found their way back to Ireland to help 
their relatives and friends to follow them. 



A LITTLE JOURNEY TO IRELAND. 
OUR LAST DAYS. 



77 



The traveller hears so little of the attractions of 
Ireland that on visiting the country for the first time 
he is not prepared for the great beauty of its scenery. 
He is constantly being surprised at the changes that 
meet his view. One day's journey may reveal lofty 
mountains and silvery lakes; another brings lovely 
valleys and fertile fields; and still another day's travel 




I)ONEGAI> CASTLE. 



shows wild and desolate stretches of bog land. But 
•each hour is full of interest, and no one can visit the 
Emerald Isle without wishing to return and see anew 
its beauties. 

One hears much of the want and misery of the 
people and their wretched homes, ]:)ut little of the 
many grand old castles, magnificent country homes, 



78 



A LITTLE JOURNEY TO IRELAND. 



splendid estates and fine gardens to be found in many 
parts of the country. Yet these latter add much to 
the beauty and interest of our journey through Ire- 
land. 

Great riches and the most extreme poverty are to 
be found side by side, yet one finds as hearty and 
hospitable a reception in the hut as in the mansion, 
and friendly faces and hands everywhere. It is. hard to 
discover why there should be so much poverty in this 
beautiful island. The landlord blames the tenant and 
the tenant blames the landlord and the government. 




A WKLL-TO-DO PEASANT'S HOME 



One estate will often show farms that are well cul- 
tivated and productive, while others plainly show 
neglect and shiftlessness on the part of the tenant or 
farmer. The landlord says that the farmers or ten- 
ants who are always complaining of hard times and 
misfortune are those who will not take the trouble to 
enrich the soil and cultivate it properly, or save their 
means. • • 



A LITTLE JOURNEY TO IRELAND. 79 

The tenants say that if improvements are made on 
the farms the landlord always raises on the rent and 
asks more than the land is worth or can be made to 
produce. When we ask the peasant farmers why they 
do not have better houses and make their homes 
attractive by planting trees and shrubs about them, 
they tell us that it is useless, and for this reason: 
When they rent their farms they are obliged to build 
their own houses. If they build good houses and 
make improvements about their places and are then 
obliged to leave them because they cannot pa}^ the 
rent, the labor is all lost. 

The landlord tells us that many of the people do 
not care for better houses, and would not take proper 
care of them if they had them, or become good farm- 
ers or workmen under the best of circumstances. The 
peasants insist that this is not true, that all they want 
is a fair chance; and they point with pride to the 
Irish people who have emigrated to other lands and 
become prosperous and eminent citizens. 

QUEENSTOWN. 

Twelve miles down the river from Cork lies Queens- 
town, the port from which we sail for home. Steam- 
ers between the United States and Liverpool stop 
there to land and receive passengers and mails. Most 
of the Irish people who emigrate embark here, and so 
that wharf is always an interesting place to visit. 

We find the Cork and Queenstown harbor a very 
fine one, well protected by strong batteries. It is the 
only naval station on the Irish coast, and it is said 



80 



A LITTLE JOURNEY TO IRELAND, 



that the whole British navy might find sheUer from 
storms there. The city is buiU on terraces on the 
side of a hill. The streets are not attractive, for the 
shops and hotels are at the foot of the hill. The fine 
homes are built high up on the terraces. 




F.RTN, FAREWELL. 



The streets and wharf are crowded with tourists, 
and sailors just landed from some ship in the harbor. 
They are doing some sight-seeing while the vessels lie 



A LITTLE JOURNEY TO IRELAND. 81 

in port, but in a few hours must board the departing 
vessels. There are hosts of beggars, too, who haunt 
Queenstown in the hope of receiving coins from the 
tourists who visit the place. And then there are the 
emigrants and their friends patiently awaiting the 
departure of the boats. 

It is a sad sight to witness the separation of these 
from their families. Many of them will never see 
each other again and their cries and grief are heart- 
l:>reaking. But once on their way the tears of the 
departing ones are soon dried, and they are their old, 
bright, rollicking selves once more. I^'or are they not 
to return in a few years with a fortune? And how 
much they mean to do for the old father and mother 
left behind. Their ver}^ first wages will be sent back 
to make the old home comfortable for those who 
must sta)^ And how pleased and proud their parents 
will be in telling of their great good fortune. So with 
hopeful eyes they look forward.' 



TEACHER'S SUPPLEMENT. 



A Little Journey to 
Ireland. 

The class or travel club has uow completed the study of Ireland, 
and is ready for a review. In order to make this interesting and 
impress the lessons learned, let the work be summed up in the 
form of an entertainment called 

AN AFTERNOON OR EVENING IN IRELAND. 

For this afternoon in Ireland invitations maj' be written by the 
pupils, or mimeographed or hectographed and carried to friends and 
parents. 

If given as an evening entertainment and illustrated ])y stereopti- 
cou views, handbills may be printed and circulated at least a week 
beforehand. The following form may l^e used: 

SCHOOL ENTERTAINMENT. 

A Trip to Ireland for Ten Cents. 

You are invited by the pupils of the '■ school (or the 

members of the Travel Class or Club) to spend an evening (or after- 
noon) in Ireland. 

The party starts promptly at 1:30 P. M. (or 8 P. M.), 

the . Those desiring to take this trip should secure tickets be- 
fore the day of departure, as the party is limited. Guides are furn- 
ished free. 

The proceeds of this entertainment ai'e to be used in the purchase 
of a library and pictures and stereopticon views for the school. 

SUGGESTIONS. 

The exercises should be conducted and the talks given ]»y the pupils 
themselves. Some topic should be selected by each pupil, or as- 
signed to him, and with this topic he should become thoroughly 
familiar. 

as 



81 A LITTLE JOURNEY TO IRELAND. 

Geograpliios, hooks of travel. niagiiziiK' artick's uiul newspapers 
sliouKl l)e consulted until eaeh pupil has his suhjeet well in hand, 
lie should also. wluTe possil)le, secure photoLiraphs. j)it'luies or ob- 
jects with which to illustrate his talk. At its close these should be 
placed upon a talile, or the chalk tray, that visitors may examine 
them more closely. 

If the entertainment is given in the evening, tlic teacher may be 
al)le to use stereopticon views. 

These will prove a very gi'cat attraction to botli pupils and parents, 
and should be secured if possibU>. The lantern with ciil lamp may 
be easily operated by the teacher while tlu> pupils give the descrip- 
tions of the pictures or give talks about the countiy. 

The lanterns and slides may be rented for the evening or after- 
noon at reasonable rates, and the cost covered by an admission fee of 
from ten to twenty-live cents. 

A leader or guide nuiy be appointed to make the introdui-tory re- 
marks, and to announce the numbers of the programme. 

Other i)upils speak of the jourue^Mo Iri'land. the pi'oi)le, indus- 
tries, '"plant and animal life, scenery and si)ccial features of the 

countrv. 

ROOM DECORATIONS. 

The room decorations for this occasion should be in green. Fill 
jars and vases with boughs and sprays of oak leaves and fasten 
branches of green wlierever places can br found for them. 

In the center of the blackboartl write or print the words, "The 
Kmerald Isle," and al)ont it in green crayon a wreath of the sham 
rock leaves. A border of tlie shamrock may also be plact'd across 
the blackboard. 

Over this should be liung i)iclurcs of King Kdward and (^)ueen 
Alexandra, and the tiags of England and Ireland. The British coat 
of arms should also be given a place in the decoraticnis. 

At one ind of tlu' board print these words. ••The Isle of Saiuls. " 
over it hang or pin a pit-tnre of St. Patrick. At the other end print 
the words. ••The Isle of Simg. " and over it a picture of Ireland ^. 
best loved poet, Thomas Moore. 

The invitations for the Afternoon Abroad may be decorated with 
shamn>ck leaves, done with water color, or with green pencils. This 



CLASS WOKK. So 

will furnish occupation for the pupils who always get through with 
their work before the rest of the class. 

The blackboard decoration will also furnish busy work for rest- 
less pupils (and the making of paper shamrocks for the pupils to 
wear). 

A pupil may go al)out among visitors after the exercises and pre- 
sent each with a shamrock leaf. Or a number of the artificial lejives 
may be sold. These may be bought in all large cities. 

Let the pupils decorate themselves with the shamrock leaves cut 
from green paper. The pupil who sings "Dear Little Shamrock," 
should ))e dressed in green and white, or in Irish poplin, and should 
liaA'c on her person a bit of Irish lace and a dainty Irish linen hand- 
kerchief. This song should follow the talk on national flower. 

If a large boy sings "The Wearing of the Green," or one of the 
other Irish songs, he might be costumed in a black coat, light trous- 
ers, buff waistcoat and boots; a rather worn-looking high hat, a 
Knotty stick, a green scarf or kerchief tied about the neck, aud a 
bandanna. 

If used as a recitation, he should approach another boy on the 
stage, costumed as an Irish cab driver, and address his remarks to 
him. The bo}' whom he addresses as "Paddy dear" may oe dressed 
in a green coat patched with cloth; jjrass buttons. Brocaded waist- 
coat. Drab breeches with patches. High collar; red tie. Blue 
darned stockings, leather shoes. Hat trimmed with green sprigs of 
shamrock. 

CHARADES. 

The words "Goldsmith"' and "Moore" may be acted out as char- 
ades, but should not be given until reference has been made to them 
in the program, or a sketch has been given of each. 

POPLAIS AND SONGS. 

Geography should go hand in hand with literature. Poems and 
songs help pupils to remember places, and places hold an added in- 
terest because they ai^e associated with poets we admire. A valu- 
al)le book in connection with literature of the countries of the world 
is "Poems of Places, "compiled by Longfellow. 

Among the poems suggested for study and recitations for the 
afternoons abroad are: 



86 A LITTLE JOURNEY TO IRELAND. 

"The Bells of Shaudon,' Mahoney; 

'The Groves of Blarney. " Millikin. 

'Killarney," J. M. Balfas. 

'The Blacksmith of Limerick, ' Joyce. 
"Sweet Auburn, "" Goldsmith. 
"A Legend of Antrim." McGee. 

'Tipperary,' Davis. 

•The Exile of Erin,'' Campbell. 

'Adair,'' Griffin. 

'The Harp." Moore. 

'Meeting of the Waters," Moore. 

'Sweet lunisf alien, " Moore, 
"Old Erin,' J. McDonell Olaragh. 
'-Ireland," Davis. 

Many of these poems has l)een set to music and may be fcuud 'u 
the following song books: 

IRISH soNas. 

Come Back to Erin, Little Journeys. 

St. Patricks Day, Little Journeys. 

Dear Little Shamrock, Little Journeys. 

The Harp, Little Journeys. 

The Minstrel Bo}', National School Library of Song. 

The Wearing of the Green, Academy of Song Book (^Ginn & Co.) 

Killarney, Franklin Square Book. 

Bay of Dublin, Franklin Square Book. 

Let Erin Remember, Songs of Life and Nature 

Erin Is My Home, Nightingale Song Book. 

The Last Rose of Summer, Fountain Song Book 

Those Evening- Bells, Fountain Song Book 



ERIN IS MY HOME. 



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COME BACK TO ERIN. 



Words and Music by Ci,auiui:i.. 




1. Comeback lo K - i"in.Mavouriieen,]Mavourneeii, Comeback. arooii, to the 

2. O - ver the green sea, Mavourneeii.IMavouriieen.Long shone the white sail that 

3. O may the aii-gels while w^k-in' orsleep-in' Watch o'er my bird in the 




land of thy l)irth; Come with the shamrocks and springtime, ]Mavonrneen, 
bore thee a - wa}'; Rid - ing the white waves. that fair summer mornin", 
L'Hid far a - wav, And in its prav'rs will consign to tlieir keep-in' 




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And it's Killarney shall ring with onr mirth. Sure when ye left us, our 
Just like a may-fiow'r a-float on the bay. O how my heart sank when 
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)eau - ti - fnl darling, Lit- tie wetho'tofthe lone winter days; Tjt tie we 
clouds came between us, Likeagrav curtain the night fjillin' down. Hid frommy 
watch the bright embers, Thenall my heart flicsaway o'er thesea, Long-in' to 




tho"t of the hush of thesunshine.Over the mountains, the bluffs and the bays! Then 

sad eyes thy path, on tlie ocean, Far. far away where my colleen had flown. Then 

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SAINT PATRICK^S DAY. 



With spirit and feeling. 




1. Oh! blest be the days when the Green Banner floated, Sublime o'er the 

2. Her sceptre, a - las! passed a-\vay to the stran-ger, And treason sur- 



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mountains of free In- nis-fail; When her sons.to her glo - ry and 
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freedom de - vo - ted, Defied the in - va - der to tread her soil; When 
darkness and danger. \Vhich,s]nte of her tyrants, would not be quelled; Oft, 




back o"er the main they chased the Dane, And gave to re - lig-ion and 
oft thro' the night flashed gleams of light. Which almost the darkness of 



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learning theirspoil. When val -or and mind to-geth-er combined: But 
bondage dispelled; But a star now is near, her heav-en to cheer, Not 



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where-fore la-ment o'er the glo-ries de- part- ed? Her stars shall shine 
like the wild gleams which so fit- ful-h' dart- ed, But long to shine 







out with as viv - id a ray, For ne'er had she children more 
down with its hal - low-ing raj', On daugh-ters as fair and 




brave and true-hearted, Than those she now sees on Saint Patrick's day. 
sons as true hearted. As E- rin be-holds on Saint Patrick's day 



!'■ 



THE DEAR LITTLE SHAMROGK. 



Modemfo. 



J. W. Cherry. 




1. There's a dear lit - tie plant that grows in our isle, 'Twas Saint 

2. That dear lit - tie plant still grows in our land, Fresh and 
lit - tie plant that springs from our soil, When its 



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notes from the stalk we to - geth - er should toil, And our- 




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THE DEAR LITTLE SHAMROSK-Goncluded. 




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shines thro' the boir, thro' the brake, and the mire -hind, And he 
shine thro' the bog, thro' tlie brake, and tlie mire - laud, Just 
still thro' the bog, thro' the brake, and the mire - land, From 






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calld it the dear lit - tie sham-rock of 
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THE HARP THAT ONCE 

THRO' TARA'S HALLS. 





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PROGRAMME. 93 



PROGRAMME. 

i. Introduction. 

"i. Recitation, "Ireland." 

3. Birdseye View of Ireland, 

4. Song, "Erin Is M}' Home." 

5. Northern Ireland. 

G. The Griant's Causeway. 

7. The Coast. 

8. Dublin City. 

9. Song, "The Bay of Divl)lin." 

10. Dublin's Famous Men. 

11. The Story of Thomas Moore. 

12. Charades. 

13. "The Harp," song. 

14. The .Jaunting Car. 

15. Country Homes. 
IG. Peasants' Homes. 

17. (Jovernment. 

18. "Let Erin Remember," song. 

19. Recitation, "Old p]rin." 

20. The Vale of Avoca. 

21. Recitation, "Meeting of the Waters. " 

22. Galway. 

23. Limerick. 

24. Killarney Lakes. 
2"). Song, "Killarney." 
2G. Cork. 

27. Father Mathew, "The Temperance Apostle. 

28. Song, "Shandon Bells." 

29. The People of Ireland. 

30. Life in the Country Towns. 

31. Song, "Dear Little Shamrock " 

32. Recitation, "Wearing of the Green. " 

33. Child Life. 

34. Religion. 

35. St. Patrick. 

3G. Song, "St. Patrick's Day." 



94 A LITTLE JOT RXEY TO IRELAND, 

37. Odd Customs of the People. 

38. Blarney Castle. 

39. Kecitation, "Groves of Blardey." 

40. Queenstown. 

41. Emigration. 

42. Recitation. -'The Exile of Erin." 

43. Song. ■•Come Hack to Erin." 

IRELAND. 

Oh, she's a fresh and fair land, 
Oh, she's a rich and rare land, 
Oh, she's a dear and fair land, 
This native land of mine. 

No men on earth are braver; 
Her women's hearts ne'er waver. 
Faith, I would die to save her, 
And deem such death divine. 

—Davis. 

OLD ERIN. 

Who sitteth cold, a beggar old, 

Before the prosperous lands, 
With outstretched palms that asketh alms 

From charitable hands? 
Feeble and lone she maketh moan, 

A stricken one is she. 
Who deep and long hath suffered wrong? 

Old Erin in the sea. 
Though broad her fields and rich their yields, 
' From Litfev to the Lee, 

Her grain Init grows to flesh the foes 

Of Erin in the sea. 

EXILE OF ERIN. 

There came to the beach a pcMir exile of Erin; 

The dew on his thin robe was heavy and chill; 

For his country he sighed, when at twilight repairing 

To wander alone bv the wind-beaten hill: 



POEMS. 95 

But the day-star attracted bis eyes' sad devotion, 
For it rose o'er his own native isle of the ocean, 
Where once in the fire of his youthful emotion, 
He sang the bold anthem of Erin go Ijragh. 

Sad is my fate ! said the heartbroken stranger; 

The wild deer and wolf to a covert can flee, 

But I have no refuge from famine and danger, 

A home and a country remain not to me. 

Never again, in the green, sunny bowers, 

Where my forefathers lived, shall I spend the sweet hours. 

Or cover my harp with the wild, woven flowers, 

And strike to the numbers of Erin go bragh ! » 

Erin, my country ! though sad and forsaken, 

In dreams I revisit thy sea-l)eaten shore; 

But, alas ! in a far foreign laud I awaken, 

And sigh for the friends who can meet me no more 1 

Oh, cruel Fate ! wilt thou never replace me 

In a mansion of peace where no perils can chase me? 

Never again shall my brothers emln-ace me? 

They died to defend me or lived to deplore ! 

Where is my cabin door, fast by the wild wood? 
Sisters and sire! did ye weep for its fall? 
Where is the mother that looked on my childhood? 
And where is the bosom friend dearer than all? 
Oh ! my sad heart ! long abandoned by pleasure. 
Why did it dote on a fast-fading treasure? 
Tears, like the raindrop, may fall without measure, 
But rapture and beauty they cannot recall. 

Yet, all its sad recollections suppressing, 

One dying wish my lone Ijosom can draw; 

Erin! an exile bequeathes thee his blessing! 

Land of my forefathers! Erin go bragh! 

Buried and cold, when my heart stills her motion. 

Green be thy field, — sweetest isle of the ocean! 

And thy harp- striking bards sing aloud with devotion, 

Erin maA^ourueen — Erin go bragh ! 

— Thomas Campbell. 



96 A LITTLE JOURNEY TO IRELAND. 

THE "\VEARI\(i OF THE GREEN. 

1. Puddy, dear, and did you hoar the news that's going round, 
The shamrock is forbid l)y hiw to grow on Irish ground; 

St. Patrick's day no more well keep, his color can't be seen, 
For there's a bloody law agin" the weariu' o' the green. 
I met with Xapper Tandy and he took me ])y the hand, 
And he said, '-How's poor ould Ireland, and how does she 

stand? " 
She's the most distressful country, that ever you have seen; 
They're hanging men and women there for wearing of the green. 

2. Then since the color we must wear, is England's cruel red. 
Sure Ireland's sons will ne'er forget, the blood that they have 

shed. 
You may take the shamrock from your hat, and cast it on the sod, ' 
But 'twill take root and flourish still, though underfoot 'tis trod. 
When the law can stop the blades of grass from growing as 

they grow. 
And when the leaves in summer time their verdure dare not 

show ; 
Then [ will change the color I wear in my caubeen, 
But till that day I'll stick for aye to the wearing of the green. 

3. But if at last our color should be torn from Ireland's heart. 
Her sons with shame and sorrow from the dear old soil will part. 
I've heard whisper of a country that lies far l)eyant the say, 
Where rich and poor stand equal, in the light of freedom's day. 
Erin, must we leave you, driven by the tyrant's hand. 

Must we ask a mother's welcome from a strange but happy land; 
Where the cruel cross of England's thraldom never shall be seen. 
And where, in peace, we'll live and die, a- wearing of the green, 

— Dion Boucicault. 

15AY OF DUBLIN ( SoUg ). 

1. Oh! Bay of Dul)lin! my heart you's trublin', 
Your beauty haunts me like a fever dream — 
Like frozen fountains that the sun sets bublilin", 
My heart's blood warms when I but hear- your name; 



POEMS. 97 

And never till this life hlood ceases, 
My earliest, latest thought will cease to be, 
There's no one here knows how fair that place is, 
And no one cares how dear it is to me. 

Sweet Wicklow Mountains! the sunlight sleeping 

On your green banks is a picture rare; 

You crowd around me like young girls peepin', 

And puzzlin' me to say which is most fair; 

As though you'd see your own sweet faces 

Eeflpcted in that smooth and silver sea; 

My blessiu' on those lovely places, 

Tho' no one cares how dear they are to me. 

IIow often, when at work I'm sittin' 

And musin' sadly on the da^'s of yore; 

I think I see my Katie knittin'. 

And the childer playin' round the cabin door; 

I think I see the neighbor faces, 

All gathered round, their long lost friend to see! 

Tho' no one here knows how fair that place is, 

Heav'n knows how dear my poor home was to uk^ 

— Lady Dufferin 
let erin remember. 
Let Erin remember the days of old. 

Ere her faithless sons betrayed her; 
AVhen Malachi wore the collar of gold 

AVhich he won from her proud invader; 
A\'hen her kings, with standard of green unfurled, 

Led the Red Branch Knights to danger. 
Ere the emerald gem of the western world 
AVas set in the crown of a stranger. 

On Lough Neagh's bank, as the fisherman strays, 

When the clear, cold eve's declining, 
He sees the round towers of other da3'S 

In the wave beneath him shining; 
Thus shall mem'ry often in dreams sublime 

Catch a glimpse of the days that are over; 
Thus sighing look through the waves of time, 

For the lung faded glories they cover. 



BOOKS OF REFERENCE. 

1. Ireland Hall 

2. Nortlierii Ireland Mrs. Craig 

3. Three Months in Ireland de Bovet 

4. Elugland, Scotland and Ireland. l)v Mason Yillars 

5. Story of Ireland Emily Lawless 

6. Bay View Magazine, April, 1901 ( Very Good) 

7. New Ireland Sullivan 

8. Guide to Ireland <' 

9. Story of Ireland " 

10. Ireland of To-day • «' 

11. History of Ireland for Schools 

12. Irish Nation, G-eography and Biographj' TVells 

13. Talks About Ireland Redpath 

14. New Views on Ireland Russell 

15. Ireland since '98 Mitchell 

16. Pictures from Ireland Blake 

17. Pictures from English, Scottish and Irish History G-alt 

18. Irish Pictures b}' Richard Lovett 

10. Ireland as I Saw It U. S. Balch 

20. Visit to Ireland, Percy Family D. C. Eddy 

21. Our Boys in Ireland H. V. French 

22. Orange and Green G. A. Henty 

23. Ireland Picturesque S. C. Hall 

24. Irish Sketch Book W. M. Thackeray 

25. Young People's History of Ireland Tcwle 



lume V 



No. 1 



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e^^4^ 



. LITTLi/ JOURNEY 

TO 

IRELLAND. 



ARIAN M. GEORGE. Editor. S # 
^ A. FLANAGAN CO., Publishers 

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fl LIBRflRT •' TRflVCL 

Cloth Bound Volumes — Little Journeys to Every Land 



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160 pages. Colored Maps. 65 illustrations. 50 cents. 

AlasKa and Canada. 

174 pages. Colored Maps. 74 illustrations, 50 cents. 

Urngland and Wales. 

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(in press.) ' 

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A MOTHER'S IDEALS 

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